Key characteristics:
Softness: Mohair is famously soft and smooth, often compared to a cloud or cashmere. Unlike other wool, it lacks prominent scales on its surface, meaning it doesn't feel itchy or scratchy.
Lustre and sheen: Mohair has a distinctive high lustre and sheen, giving it a shimmering, almost iridescent appearance. This is one of its most prized features.
Durability and resilience: While delicate in appearance, mohair is surprisingly strong and holds its shape well. It's also naturally flame-resistant and crease-resistant.
Insulation: Mohair is an excellent insulator, keeping you warm in winter and cool in summer. This makes it ideal for a range of uses, from sweaters and scarves to blankets and upholstery.
Dyeing: Mohair accepts dyes exceptionally well, allowing for vibrant and rich colours.
Uses:
Mohair is most commonly used in knitwear, especially sweaters, scarves, and hats. Its luxurious qualities make it ideal for special occasion garments or accessories. Additionally, it's used in:
Home decor: Mohair throws, pillows, and rugs add a touch of elegance and warmth to any space.
Doll-making: Mohair yarn is perfect for creating realistic hair and fur on dolls and stuffed animals.
Blending: Mohair is often blended with other fibres like wool or silk for added strength and structure.
The journey of mohair from fluffy goat to luxurious fabric involves several key steps:
1. Shearing: This crucial first step happens twice a year, typically in spring and fall. Skilled shearers use electric clippers to remove the fleece gently, taking care to avoid harming the goats.
2. Scouring: The raw mohair is then washed thoroughly to remove dirt, grease, and lanolin (a natural oil). This process can involve a series of baths with soap and water, often with gentle raking to loosen impurities.
3. Sorting and Grading: Depending on the fibre length, fineness, and quality, the mohair is sorted and graded. This determines its ultimate use and value.
4. Carding: Here, the fibres are aligned and straightened using machines with wire teeth. This process also removes any remaining vegetable matter and prepares the fibres for spinning.
5. Combing (optional): For finer and longer fibres, an additional combing step separates the long fibres from the shorter ones. This creates a smoother, higher-quality yarn.
6. Spinning: The fibres are then twisted together to form yarn using either the woollen or worsted systems. The woollen system produces a thicker, softer yarn, while the worsted system creates a smoother, stronger yarn.
7. Dyeing (optional): Mohair readily accepts dyes, allowing for vibrant and rich colours. This step may take place before or after spinning, depending on the desired effect.
8. Finishing: Finally, the yarn may undergo additional finishing processes like bleaching, setting, or softening to achieve the desired final characteristics.
Ethical considerations: It's important to be aware of the potential ethical concerns surrounding mohair production.While processing itself isn't inherently harmful, it's crucial to choose mohair sourced from farms that prioritise the welfare of Angora goats. Some animal rights organisations have documented cases of mistreatment of Angora goats in certain farms. If you're concerned about animal welfare, consider researching the source of your mohair to ensure it comes from humane and sustainable practices. Look for certifications like the Responsible Mohair Standard to ensure ethical and sustainable practices throughout the entire chain.
By understanding the journey from farm to fabric, you can make informed choices when purchasing mohair products and appreciate the complex work behind this luxurious material.